What is there to say
about The Lake and its magic? I came, I saw, I fell in love. And stayed. I got my Spanish lessons started, I got involved with the Fire Fuego space (more on than later) and yeah, there was a man whose name was Truth. Hilarious, as I'd been asking the Universe to manifest truth. Just shows me to be more specific in my requests. I wanted to find my own truth, not a man called Truth. The Universe has a wicked sense of humour... But I digress. The
idea of the horse caravan started to sound less and less appealing
the more time went by. So I decided not to go
join it in the end. It seemed that there would have been
more people interested in joining than there would have been
available horses, and what with all the love for San Marcos, the journey up north didn't seem
like a good deal anymore. It felt like the caravan had been the mind
idea that had brought me to Guatemala, but it was not what I was
there for. I was there to learn other things.
The Lake taught me
about relationships and about what I really want from a partner. It
taught me about anger, the white glowing burning kind that I had never felt before. It taught me about surrender in the face of the
most difficult bout of sickness I've ever experienced. Long story
short: spinning vision even when laying down, intense nausea with the
slightest of movements, complete loss of balance and horrendous
vertigo, total helplessness in the first couple of days. Having to
rely on the good will of complete strangers taught me to trust that I
will be held and helped, no matter what. I was truly truly blessed to
have the equivalent of an angel, Ellanah, as a housemate in the
hostel I was staying at, and she totally saved my life. It is still
intensely challenging for me to ask for help, and my feelers for
seeking signs of being a burden to other people are intensely
fine-tuned, but she was one of the most genuinely good and selfless
people I have ever met, and never did I once feel like like I was
taxing her or annoying her in any way. She helped to heal that false
sense of being a burden and of that (and the countless juices and
food and taking me to see the doctor and other things she helped me
with) I will be forever grateful.
Well, it wasn't such a
short story in the end, but I did recover. My balance was off for
months afterwards, and only after seeing a chiropractor a couple of
times, having massages and eventually going to another body worker in
Mexico did I figure out that it hadn't been a freaky virus attacking
my balance organs in my inner ear like I thought at first. My neck vertebrae had been severely misaligned, and even after that
was corrected, there was a nerve in my neck that would get pinched
when the muscles got too stiff, and that would cause the vertigo,
spinning vision and loss of balance. Weird and wonderful, this human
body! But now I know.
Sticking to the health
related issues for a while: San Marcos also excelled at being
Parasite Central, like I lovingly called it. The last rainy season
had been very dry and the community water reservoirs were running on
empty. So the people resorted to using lake water for washing dishes
and household water. And that water was not clean. Giardia and other
lovely parasites ran rampant, and everyone had their favourite
special remedy to recommend for getting rid of the parasites
(Grapeseed extract! Garlic! Apple cider vinegar! Diatomaceous earth!
You name it...). There was a wonderful health food store in the
nearby town of San Pedro (the town that excelled at being a party
spot and a haven for backpackers wanting to learn Spanish), so we
would stock up on all sorts of meds and supplements and herbs as well as luxury items such as special
snacks (Finnish licorice!!, Edamame bean snacks! Peanut butter
chocolate squares! Rice cakes! Almond butter!) and revelled in the
ridiculously awesome selection of bulk spices, herbs, flours, nuts
and whatever the health nerds heart could possibly want. I know it
sounds a bit weird, but I loved those 15 minute lancha (boat) trips
to San Pedro to make a quick shopping trip (and spend exorbitant
amounts of money) and then return back to San Marcos, very happy that
I didn't have to stay with "the normal people";).
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San Pedro |
The San Marcos crowd
was a truly interesting mix. A spiritual hub like Koh Phangan and
Bali, it draws a lovely conscious community, most of whom stay
the whole season. So there was no shortage of workshops, yoga
classes, sound healing sessions, ecstatic dances etc etc etc. And of
course the two most important San Marcos bliss inducers: kirtans and
cacao ceremonies.
Kirtans in the amazing
Mahadevi ashram in the nearby town of Tzununa (translates to home of
the hummingbirds) became my weekly trip to devotion. It never ceases
to amaze me how much pure joy and bliss and strong connection to the
divine chanting the names of the various gods can give me. Combine
that with the most wonderful cacao known to man, and you have a
ceremony like no other. There I felt like I belonged. I sang with my
heart and soul and gave myself fully to every emotion that made
itself known.
San Marcos is also the
home of Keith the cacao shaman, who hosts ceremonies on his tiny
porch. He is one of the clearest channels of universal wisdom I have ever met,
and sitting with him always left me with an immense sense of balance
and inner strength. Everything seemed easier, lighter and things just
aligned and made sense. He has a wonderful loving, selfless and
welcoming aura and I so look forward to working with him again. One
of the most hilarious highlights of my San Marcos existence was to do
a work trade for a ceremony, where my task was to sew patches on his
pants with an old Husqvarna sewing machine that was the exact same
model that my mom has. Such amazing home-feeling-inducing objects we
find in the most indrecible places around the world.
One of my projects in
San Marcos was also to bring a community space called Fire Fuego on
its feet and brainstorm its kitchen into existence. We had a lot of
fun and the opening was a big success, and the place had a lovely
little life span. It did peter out in the end, which was sad to see,
but by that I had already moved on. A wonderful experience
nevertheless, and an important anchor for me in the early days of SM
life.
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I also had the honour
of working at one of the most amazing restaurants I've ever been to.
Medicine Foods was run by Kadhi and Chetan, a lovely warmhearted
couple who had made their dream of a cafe serving healthy high vibing
superfood into reality in San Marcos. They truly are warriors of
culinary creations, always managing to keep the spirits high and the
food clean and pure even with the super challenging water situation
(no running water in a kitchen? Not the easiest of things). And they
have an almost uncanny sense of how to perfect the flavours in their
dishes. Nothing ever tasted bland or boring, and their raw chocolate
praline selection was to die for. Not to mention their smoothies. I
ate there like three times a week at least and still always wanted
more. Such an amazing place!
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Hole punch, San Marcos style |
My San Marcos existence
spanned across the transition from 2016 to 2017, and we decided to
celebrate the new year at Cosmic Convergence, a music/yoga/healing
festival just across the lake, near Santiago. A truly magical location, and an
amazing near year's adventure, where I finally ended up getting a new
name. I'd been wanting one for a while, thinking that the change I
had gone through also warranted a new start, namewise. Plus it had
gotten somewhat exhausting, introducing myself as Lilje, since nobody
ever got the name or was able to pronounce it (which I found
baffling, since it isn't that hard, now, is it?), which led to the
first step in a new friendship always being one of confusion and
slight awkward annoyance. I wasn't in a spiritual sangha that would
give out new names though, and wasn't about to seek one out just for
that purpose. I believe in being my own guru, so it felt only fitting
that I would also be the one to name myself. So, new year's eve, a nice
consciousness expansion journey, and the dance floor. I danced, I
meditated, and in the end there were two names left: Patience and
Faith. Patience won. So the first of January was also my new
birthday. Welcome, Patience! A trait and a virtue I had not excelled
at, but which I was to become more and more familiar with as I
continued to introduce and associate myself with the name. It is
lovely to see the light of recollection in people's eyes when they
hear my name now. "Patience? Really? Wow, I need more of that in my
life!" So do I. That's why I chose it. And I chose well :)
Oh yeah, and then there was the guy who played the leading role in my San Marcos experience. So yes, I fell in love with a man, or more like an idea of a man.... He was the most challenging and complex person I've ever tried to make a relationship work with, and he turned out to teach me exactly what I needed to learn about my wishes and dreams about relationships. Namely, that I was so deeply craving for this soul partner, travel partner, life partner, and for him to be the safety network and ground on which I would yet again build my life like I always had before, that I fell in love with the possibility. And then woke up to notice that no, this person is definitely not the one I could make my dreams come true with. But I did get a 3 month intense relationship workshop out of it. And we did also have good times. But mainly it was a tremendous lesson and exactly what I needed to wake up and notice my patterns even more clearly. After this experience and after diving deeper into my own strength, the new encounters with interesting people have started from a much more stable and balanced space. Thank you, Truth.
So, San Marcos. What
more is there to say? I could go on and on, but I think you get the
point. I don't think I've ever grown more in a place than I did in
San Marcos. When people ask what I did there for the whole of 4 months, baffled about the size of it (tiny) and the apparent places to do stuff in (less than few), I always answer "I was intensely being". My time there was not fun and games most of the time, it definitely
was not a holiday, but in the end it was perfect as it was (like things always are, because they went exactly the way they were supposed to). I learned to trust,
got more confident, learned to deal with intensely difficult
situations. Made amazing lifelong friendships with the Atitlan Tribe. Became Patience. Learned to love myself even more. And
that is ultimately what all of this travelling and seeking and
exploring is all about.